Welcome to the Science of Surf Forecasting#
This blog explores the fascinating intersection of oceanography, mathematics, and computational methods used in surf forecasting. As both a surfer and a science enthusiast, I’m passionate about understanding the complex systems that create perfect waves.
What We Cover#
Wave Physics & Oceanography#
- Wave generation and propagation
- Swell dynamics and wave periods
- Bathymetry’s influence on wave behavior
- Ocean-atmosphere interactions
Mathematical Models#
- Wave spectrum analysis
- Statistical forecasting methods
- Time series modeling
- Wave transformation equations
Computational Techniques#
- Numerical weather prediction (NWP) models
- Machine learning applications in surf forecasting
- Data visualization methods
- Real-time data processing
Why This Matters#
Understanding the science behind surf forecasting not only helps surfers find better waves but also contributes to our broader knowledge of coastal processes and ocean dynamics. Through this blog, I aim to break down complex concepts into digestible pieces, making the science accessible to both beginners and experienced forecasters.
Join me as we dive deep into the mathematics and physics that help us predict when and where the next perfect wave will appear!